What Surfing Taught Me About Fear
This summer, I fell in love with surfing.
Like many beginners, I spent a lot of time falling off my board rather than riding it.
When I fall, fear plays like a movie in my head, showing me all the possible dangers that I could face: water dumped on my head, rocks and reefs, rip currents, collisions with other surfers or boards.
None of these things are likely to be fatal. But my instinct to avoid these unpleasant outcomes makes me stiff and tense. As a result, I get wiped out on waves that I could have caught.
"What-if" thoughts are the surf killers.
Off the waves, I see crippling fear holds me back in other areas of my life too.
Surfing taught me a few lessons on working with my fear: be rational, be playful, and be comfortable at being uncomfortable.
Fear is often emotional instead of rational
As I sit in the lineup to catch my breath, I watch the surf. A dozen surfers are enjoying the waves. Many of them fall off, but they quickly resurface and go back in. The risk of serious injuries in this area is relatively low. I take note of this and realize that these are the perfect waves for me. I can handle them.
Remember we are here to play
The best surfers next to me have a playful, childlike attitude. It allows them to enjoy each wave with enthusiasm instead of dread. They stay relaxed and focused, which allow them to perform at their best. With each wave, they improve their skills and confidence. Having fun helps us stay for the long game.
Finding peace in being uncomfortable
As I watch the white water foams splash and hear the sound of the breaking waves, I am awestruck by the power of the ocean. This feeling of awe is what draws me to the sport of surfing. Falling off the board and getting back on is hard work, but it's the only way to catch a wave. When I realize that pain is simply a part of the process, I feel at ease with the exertion.
The sun starts to set. Only a few waves left for the day. I start paddling again. As I hear the swell behind me, I feel the fear creeping in. I say hello to it and was ready to take my next chance.
It stems from passion first, and then hard work, focus and determination. Not overcoming fear, but being in line with it. As soon as you eliminate fear, it’s when you get injured, especially in big waves, because you would make brashy decisions.
- Kai Lenny, big wave surfer
Check out this clip of big wave surfing at Pe’ahi, Maui. It’s stunningly beautiful.
I love surfing too! Glad to see you pick it up.